The shortish flight of 5 and a half hours seemed to last forever so by the time I landed all I wanted was some clean air and space, walking off the plane was hit by a wall of thick heat. Great!
However my mood soon changed as I saw a precession of armed guards with a marching band who were there to greet the President of Senegal, it was quite a sight. Having gone through all the security checks myself and Leah (the other volunteer) were greeted by our host Sisawo and his working colleague Ansumana holding up a card with our names on; our greeting was not as grand as that of the Senegalese President but still pretty special. On the journey to our "place of stay" we were treated by a ride through the busy village of Serakunda with many street stalls children running round in the pouring rain and muddy sand everywhere, the other side of the road had been blocked off for The Gambian President and his convoy as they came flying past in huge blacked out windowed HGVs and various military vehicles with mounted guns. Needless to say within minutes of this sudden obstruction there was an accident which slowed things down to a turtles pace. So this is Gambia a rainy place with reckless drivers and intense humidity.
When we pulled up outside a house on a small dirt road the sun had come out and the rain was gone, we were directed through a gate and into a house by our hosts and were greeted by a local lady with a huge smile (Anty Nyiama). We were given a mini tour of the house and shown our bedrooms. I really wasn't expecting this; this house is insane, double bed en-suit, a huge 47" TV with giant speakers, the lounge is grand with seats worthy of royalty and enough to seat a small congregation. I was lost for words and couldn't help but smile and laugh I was expecting some small building with plain walls a mattress and a possibly a table with 2 chairs.
Wow this is the life!
The next day arranged to be collected by Sisawo to meet my work colleagues at the NDMA (national disaster management agency), however forgot to alter my clock so woke up and hour early, and was treated to my first experience of African timing. Having been introduced to our work colleagues we were taken to see the national youth organisation based at the national football stadium which was pretty wicked. On the way back to our residence we were treated to our first experience of a local market which was just a maze of passageways full of people, stalls and animals. With the help of Sisawo we acquired some local fruit and veg at a good price. We also dared to pick up some steak despite the fact that it was covered in flies. YUM!
Cooked our first meal with the local ingredients, it was pretty good; a nice end to a tiring muggy day.
To update our visas we had to travel to Banjul which is the capital, although it seemed quiet for a capital, it is home to the majority of official buildings which have the best air conditioning systems in the world, was getting cold whilst having my visa checked. After this we were treated to another experience of visiting a local school were Sisawo had studied, although there weren't many students there as it currently summer holidays and so only a few were there for summer school. We were introduced to the Head Master who we would meet again as he is the Chief of a local village where we will stay. On the way back home we traveled through some local communities and full of children playing in the road and constantly smiling. When you shake hands with one of them it starts a frantic craze of kids appearing from no where running towards you in an overly excited state just to shake your hands, it was surreal how excited they were to shake my hands I don't think I have ever been that excited about anything in my life.
Unexpected rest day today as unfortunately Sisawo had his bag stolen from his car so he had to sort that out, what a shame he is such a nice guy feel quite bad for him.
Well to make the most of the day when the sun came out we decided to check out the local beach, however being in a tourist area we were bombarded by "Bumsters", they seem all nice at first and then lead you to a secluded area and tell you some sob story about how they need money to help them play drums or feed children, it was an unknown area so we gave in and gave them a bit of money which is annoying and has put me off from wanting to visit that beach again. Although we did meet one nice guy "Steve" who own a stall 23 in the tourist market of Senegambia, he gave us each a necklace as a gift we shall have to visit him again. So a day which started unfortunately got worse but ended well. It could have been worse so chin up.
Today we got our first work experience by helping with some tree planting in a small village which was nice although it did rain all day, the wettest yet. After which we visited a snake & reptile park with other local wild life from within the Gambia, including the deadly House Snake, "Who's house".
Visited the largest fishing market in Gambia which was crazy, people everywhere running around with fish and shouting in the pouring rain, luckily Ansumana sorted us out with some fresh fish (Red Snapper), without his help we would have been completely lost. Got 6 fish for a pound, what a steal!.
Started work on Monday 22nd August. The work is relaxed and no-one ever seems busy but all the staff are very friendly and welcoming. I got a lift home with the ladies from work which was nice, they are looking after me. Being as all my colleagues are fasting for the Ramadan I to have decided to fast for the week, not quite the month, never mind. The hardest part isn't not eating until sunset, but the fact that I am not allowed to consume liquids is tough especially in the humid conditions, also because I am too lazy to wake up at 5am for breakfast I am only eating and drinking between 19:30 and when I go to bed, so if anything I have it worse.
Been here a week now and already I have managed to achieve some air time on the national news (GRTS). It was as part of a story with the relief process within the Gambia for to help prevent flood damage, I got to meet some very important people within the Gambia and Africa itself. Although my highlight of the day was seeing the village head men discussing "Arguing" with the men in-charge of preventing the damage, it was quite funny, local people around were laughing and clapping.
Last day of my fasting period, it was tough but I'm glad I tried it and succeeded; however I will be happy to be able to drink and eat whenever I want again. We were treated to our first African meal today by Anty Nyiama, it was succulent "COW" with cous cous and peppers. Mmm!. A great way to end my fast.
For the end of the Ramadan we were invited by Sisawo to spend it with his friends in a local village. The day of prayers woke up at 9 to have breakfast "Snack". We then got dressed for the prayers, I borrowed a lovely white traditional Muslim outfit off Sisawo, then we headed off for prayers, yes you guessed it we were late, Ha!. The elders (all men) are at the front leading the prayers followed by rows of men and at the back are the rows of women. Didn't really know what was going on just following Sisawo and then he joined a row with no more space and just pointed at me; oh dear I immediately panicked where should I be stuck in between 2 rows I head backwards maybe Leah is standing to the side taking pictures, nope she has joined a woman's row. Then everyone went down to their knees and I was stuck in no mans land. Bugger!
Luckily some boys had arrived late so started a new row near Sisawos row, I immediately joined them and participated in the prayer ritual, now I could relax and enjoy the experience. Sisawo ushered me over to take some pictures, seemed weird but other people were doing the same thing so I felt ok. We then followed Sisawo to greet others within the village and have pictures taken, including the Principal of the school as mentioned earlier as he is the village chief. After the prayers are finished it is tradition to walk home a different way and visit the village elders including the chief lady of the village who is in-charge of the naming ceremony.
Of course when we got back we were given breakfast round 2. Ha! so much food.
We helped with the cooking for lunch and tea, I was in-charge of the fire which required the melting of a plastic bag as the wood being used was damp, my ingenious idea of using ripped up card also helped get it going. To my surprise there were no toxic fumes from the plastic bag, will have to remember that trick when having trouble with fires in the future.
It felt a bit like Christmas as everyone is dressed up family and friends eating loads, and the children go around from house to house getting money. It was a lovely experience.
After lunch we went for an evening stroll around the village, as the sun disappeared the night sky was illuminated by a plethora of stars, it was quite a sight. Having arrived back at the house we were given more food, all the food was traditional Gambian dishes mostly including peanuts. To end the evening I sat outside chatting with the locals and Sivi (The lady of the house), we had green tea which was served in a shot glass and was very sweet. To watch it being prepared was mesmirising, as it was poured from one shot glass into another falling about an arms width through the air in the dark with only a candle light, quite a talent. It was delicious.
Currently learning Mandinka so will have to see how that goes, so far it is odd with the different sounds.
So that is the summary of nearly 3 weeks within the Gambia, having fully settled in now and knowing how to deal with the bumsters so that I can go wherever I want, the culture differences is still huge but I am getting more used to it. Lets hope the fun continues and that I learn a lot from both my work and living experiences.
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